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The Rogue Cut

Meet the Owner & Founder of AÉDE, Ruth Robalino

Meet the Owner & Founder of AÉDE, <i>Ruth Robalino</i>

For Ruth Robalino, the founder and owner of AÉDE, hairdressing was a calling from an early age, starting her career at the budding age of 15. By the time Ruth finished school she was working full time, and had opened her own salon at just 24 years of age. 

Nearly 2 decades later, Ruth still has the same passion and drive for hair styling and the industry, and in particular hair health and education. It was only a matter of time before she would launch her own brand, offering a fresh perspective on what it really takes to achieve healthy, beautiful hair. We chat to Ruth about what drives her and how she approaches her brand AÉDE with a 'Rogue' perspective. 

 

Tell us about yourself

Hair has been my passion since childhood when I would visit salons twice a week with my mother who loved to treat herself to a blowdry. I landed my first role in a salon at age 15 and took the leap at age 24 to open my own. I’ve always been driven by the art and creativity of hairdressing but the ability to significantly shift the way a customer feels about themselves…there’s just no feeling like it. This translated into launching Aéde supplements 10 years later, with the goal of creating a solution that addressed hair heath from the inside out.

Fun fact: I have an obsession with Interior design and Architecture.

 

What does the term 'embrace your own' mean to you?  

The term ‘embrace your own’ for me is about following my own path and vision, allowing this to flow and change course. To feel the ups and downs and own it. The good, the bad and the ugly, knowing that each step is meant for me and will get me to where I want to be. Sometimes it’s necessary to drown out the background noise to get there and remember to trust yourself and the process.

 

How do you think you buck the norm in your job or industry?

Aéde supplements are designed with a professional angle in mind. The key factor for us was being able to create best-in-class supplements that hair specialists themselves would recommend.

At the time that I started dreaming up Aéde, most of us would have bought our vitamins and supplements from our local pharmacy, so the idea of selling supplements in a salon was certainly not the norm. This space has evolved so much and I feel super proud to be one of the first companies to bring that to salons and allow for a completely holistic experience when it comes to haircare.

 

Why do you think it's important to look beyond the traditional and embrace the new?

 We live in a constantly changing world and at this point in time, it feels like that change is moving at an exceptional pace! Put quite simply, I see the ability to embrace the new in all facets of life as essential. In a business setting it absolutely assists the development of your brand, team and customer experience and helps you to stay at the forefront of how you respond to customer needs and desires.

 

Curiosity and the desire to learn more is important for us a Rogue, how relevant or important is it for you in your field of work?  

I have been hairdressing for 25 years so creating a brand and moving into a world of products that stem around complementary medicine meant I needed to shift gears and really dive into learning something new. I absolutely loved the challenge and each day I learn so much from my incredible team and the people I am blessed to work with. Not only is the desire to learn more important to me personally but I also love to educate others. I really feel Aéde has given me the ability to share my new knowledge with others too.

 

How do you ensure you're providing the best quality work for your clients or customers?

For me, delivering high-quality products is non-negotiable and I will always place quality over quantity. We go above and beyond at Aéde to ensure this is the case from our bespoke formulations, how and where we source our raw materials, to our testing processes throughout each batch.

From our ingredients, to our packaging design and product education, we strive to offer customers a brand they can trust in and be a joy to experience as part of their individual wellness rituals.

 

As an artist, how and where do you get your inspiration?

This has certainly changed for me since venturing away from the salon floor and into the product space. Essentially, I think the fact that I am truly passionate about what I do makes it easy for me to be inspired by what will naturally lead to growth, both personally and within my brand. 

One of the key things that being a hairdresser has taught me is to listen, ask questions and keep an open mind. See everyone and everything as a new opportunity for inspiration.

 

What brands do you use from Rogue Beauty? Why do you like using those brands and products?

Oribe has to be one of my all time favourite brands (and I have worked with many) the range is diverse and is so beautiful to work with. I am a sucker for packaging, luxury and attention to detail and I think that Oribe embodies this in every way.

I have also recently been playing with R+Co Bleu and have loved everything I have tried so far. I really look forward to getting my hands on some more and having a play.

 

What's your favourite Rogue Beauty product and why?

Oribe Bright Blonde Shampoo and Conditioner. I have been using it for years and love the way it maintains the brightness of my blonde and the hydration it gives the hair. The fragrance is also divine! I often follow this with the R+Co Bleu Reparative Masque for when I really feel like treating myself to some luxury and self care.

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Why you should pay attention to your scalp

Why you should pay attention to your <i>scalp</i>

Your scalp is an extension of your face, the same rules should apply

Healthy and shiny hair starts, quite literally, at the root. If your scalp skin is not in optimal condition—thoroughly clean, perfectly balanced—then you’re not giving your hair it’s best shot at reaching its full growth, glossy and lush potential. A scalp care routine is simple, and doing it regularly will set you on the path to a happy head of hair.

Beauty editors are always going on about the importance of getting your skin as healthy as possible, and it’s for a very good reason: healthy skin makes everything else—namely, makeup—infinitely easier. But we’re not just talking about your complexion, because the same principle applies to the rest of your head: look after your scalp skin and you’ll be ensuring your hair always looks its best.

“Our scalp is home to around 100,000 hair follicles, and if scalp skin is dehydrated, damaged or distressed, it can’t function at its optimum level,” explains hairdresser Stevie Vincent, owner of her eponymous salon in Perth.

It can be strange to think about scalp skin being prone to some of the same environmental and ageing factors as our face skin, but it’s not that much of a stretch when you consider that the scalp is essentially an extension of our face. Regularly removing dead skin cells encourages cellular turnover, so that fresh and healthy skin cells can come through and provide the best environment for hair growth. And then there’s the product buildup from all those dry shampoos, texture sprays and gels, accumulation that “can suffocate the hair follicle and, in some cases, lead to premature hair loss or other scalp conditions,” warns Vincent.

So what’s the solution?

Treat your scalp as you would your face, and adopt a dedicated skincare routine. Just like you might smear on a face mask for #SelfcareSunday, think about swapping out your regular shampoo one day a week for a scalp cleansing treatment. Vincent’s picks:

R+Co Acid Wash: buzzy beauty ingredient apple cider vinegar whisks away excess product buildup without stripping the scalp, and helps balance scalp skin’s pH levels. 

R+Co Tea Cup: a must for regular swimmers, this conditioning rinse washes away chlorine, minimises colour fading and rehydrates dried-out hair.

Oribe Exfoliating Scalp Scrub: both chemical (alpha hydroxy acids) and physical (sugar cane) exfoliants gently remove dead skin, oil, dirt and product build-up, while a dose of caffeine rejuvenates scalp skin and hair follicles.

What do you do if you have issues with flaking and dandruff?

And then there are those white flakes that most people have to deal with from time to time, and which are generally caused by one of two things: a dry or irritated scalp, or dandruff, which can be brought on by seasonal changes, periods of high stress, or over-washing the hair which can lead to a dehydrated scalp. If it’s the former, regular exfoliation allows natural oils to nourish scalp skin and keep it healthy, while for the latter, it’s worth routinely using a deep cleansing duo, like Sachajuan Scalp Shampoo & Conditioner, which has skincare favourite salicylic acid to dissolve flakes, plus a botanical blend of rosemary oil, menthol and ginger extract, to soothe irritation.

Finally, Vincent suggests you don’t forget all the other little things that you might not be aware you’re doing: don’t sleep with wet hair (the moisture can lead to issues ranging from irritation and itchiness, to dryness and dandruff), wear a hat to shield your scalp from damaging UV rays, don’t just focus on mid lengths and ends when brushing out your hair, but get right into the roots as well, “and give yourself a little scalp massage while you’re there—future you will thank you for it."

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The truth behind silicones: Debunking haircare's most-hated ingredient

The truth behind <i>silicones</i>: Debunking haircare's most-hated ingredient

Is the witch hunt against this slippery substance warranted?

In the haircare realm, very few products have earned the particular brand of controversy that’s reserved for those containing silicone. With claims floating around that silicone can do everything from leaving your hair greasy (at best) to making your strands fall out (at worst), it’s no surprise people are sceptical.

Unsurprisingly, many products caught containing this slippery substance have been instantly vilified and exiled to the darkest depths of bathroom cabinet shelves.

But is the witch hunt warranted?

Well, the issue isn’t clear cut. Below, we’ll present you with all the facts, so you’ll be empowered to make your own decision about silicones based on your personal needs.

Let’s get into the deep dive.


What are silicones?

Now, for some science. In the context of haircare, silicones are multifunctional ingredients with a unique set of chemical and physical properties. They’re found in a variety of hair products including shampoos, conditioners, colourants, and styling aids. 

There are three types:

  1. Water-soluble silicones: We’re stating the obvious here, but this type of silicone is dissolvable in water and easily washed from hair with shampoo.
  2. Non-water-soluble silicones: These won’t dissolve in water, and you’ll need to use a clarifying shampoo to remove them, or build-up will occur.
  3. Evaporative (or ‘volatile’) silicones: Lasting anywhere from 10 minutes to several hours after application, this type of silicone literally evaporates from the hair.

The good (what silicones might offer for your hair)

Here’s where things get hazy. “It’s not as easy as saying ‘silicones are bad’ as they do have a place in some products,” says Melbourne-based hairstylist and colourist, Danny Puopolo.

While Danny generally recommends going silicone-free, he emphasises that the decision should be made on a case-by-case basis. “It depends on the person’s hair type and how they like it to feel,” continues Danny.

Some silicone-containing hair products can offer these benefits:

  1. ​​Thermal protection: Regular heat-styling can damage the hair leaving locks brittle, dull, and dry. Research has shown that some speciality silicones can offer protection against heat damage thanks to their film-forming properties and low thermal conductivity.
  2. Colour longevity: As silicones are ‘hydrophobic,’ they repel water which can be helpful in promoting colour longevity, according to studies. There’s a caveat to this though - they can interfere with hair colouring processes (more on this below).
  3. Shine boosting: Dry, damaged hair becomes lacklustre due to the cuticle becoming rough. “Silicones help to smooth and fill the cuticle, resulting in shinier, softer-looking hair,” explains Danny.
  4. Improved manageability: Silicones may improve manageability for medium to dense and coarse hair types. “I always reach for a shine spray or oil when I’m working with knotty and dry hair types. It helps make the hair easier to work with and has a fabulously luxe result,” says Danny.

All that in mind, if you are going to use products with silicones, Danny advises only choosing those with water-soluble silicones as they’re “much easier to wash away at the end of the day.”

The bad (and why you might want to avoid silicones)

Silicone build-up can give hair a greasy, lank appearance

Although silicones might give some hair types a shinier, more manageable appearance, for others (especially finer strands), silicones can accumulate over time and weigh down the hair shaft. The result? Limp, lank and even greasy-looking locks.

 Silicones can ‘suffocate’ hair

It might sound dramatic but because some silicones can’t be easily removed from the hair, silicone build-up over time can result in a coating that may ‘suffocate’ your strands. “This coating stops hair products from penetrating the hair, which over time has a damaging effect,” says Danny.

Silicones can interfere with colouring processes

Although silicones might help with colour longevity, silicone build-up can also negatively impact the colouring process. “Silicones can stop hair colour penetrating and lasting on the hair. In some cases, silicones can react to the hair colouring process - a hairdresser's nightmare,” says Danny.

Convinced it's time to go silicone-free?

If you’re ready to step away from the silicones, it’s time to get cleansing. “Stop using the current products immediately and switch to a clarifying and purifying shampoo to gently start cleansing the build-up off,” advises Danny.

Danny also says you’ll want to up the ante on your hydrating products “to keep the hair feeling healthy and replace to needed strength and moisture to the hair. The Oribe Gold Lust Mask is perfect for this.”

How to know whether a hair product contains silicones

As a rule of thumb, “most professional hair products should not contain any silicones that can build up and damage the hair,” says Danny. If you’d like to do your own due diligence, here are some common ones to watch out for.

Non-water-soluble silicones to avoid:

  • Dimethicone
  • Dimethiconol
  • Amodimethicone
  • Cetyl dimethicone
  • Cetearyl methicone

 

Water-soluble silicones that might be OK (depending on your hair type):

  • Stearoxy dimethicone
  • Dimethicone copolyol
  • Behenoxy dimethicone

The TL;DR on whether to avoid silicones

At worst, silicones might damage the hair and at best, they may provide some short-term benefits like increased shine and manageability. Silicones are more like a Band-Aid solution with temporary benefits, but they won’t benefit the long-term health of your hair.

Here’s the TL;DR:

  • If using silicones, choose products wisely taking into consideration your personal hair type.
  • You’ll want to steer well clear of silicones if you've got fine hair.
  • If using products with silicones, choose professional brands containing water-soluble silicones only.
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Cool Girl Textured Waves

Cool Girl <i>Textured Waves</i>

1. Textured Waves


Step 1 - Ace Your Base

Starting with a perfected base is essential. Reach for your preferred hair primer and work through clean towel dried hair with your hands. Comb through.


Embed product carousel: “Find your perfect primer” 

Oribe Run-Through (fine hair), Oribe Balm D’or (med-thick), IGK MISTRESS Hydrating Hair Balm, Sachajuan Leave In Conditioner, R+Co Waterfall (medium hair), Oribe Supershine (medium hair), R+Co Pinstripe (med).


Step 2 - Smooth & Prep

Blast dry hair until it’s 80% dry without a nozzle, then take a round brush and begin to smooth it out with the nozzle attachment.


Once dried, spritz over a styling spray for heat protection and touchable hold. A crucial step to protect hair and provide long lasting curls.


Embed product carousel: “Find your curl styler”

R+Co Grid, Oribe Tres Set, Sachajuan Thermal Protection Spray, IGK Good Behaviour Spray 4-in-1



Step 3 - Curl In Small Sections


Heat up your 32mm Hot Tool Curling Iron between 180-220 degrees depending on the thickness of your hair.


Start with a horizontal section from behind the ears, then split that section down the middle to the nape. Begin curling in 2cm pieces, alternating your curl direction.


Repeat with the next horizontal section from the temples.


When it comes to the hairline and fringe section, you want to frame the face by pointing your curling iron down and curling away from the face. 



Step 4 - Let Your Curls Cool

Let your curls set by allowing them to cool and spraying them with hairspray. Brush through with a wide tooth comb and reveal our perfect beachy waves.


Embed product carousel: 

Oribe Superfine, R+Co Vicious, IGK 1800 Hold Me, Sachajuan Hairspray Light & Flexible, R+Co Bleu Lifestyler




Step 5 - The Finishing Touch

Customise the final look of your curls depending on your desired finish. Whether that be added texture, shine or glossiness! 


Embed product carousel:

R+Co Bleu Optical Illusion, Oribe Apres Beach, IGK Beach Club, Sachajuan Shine Serum

R+Co Balloon, Oribe Dry Texturising Spray





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